
A Tale of Two Congos
“The tranquil waterway leading to the uttermost ends of the earth flowed somber under an overcast sky—seemed to lead into the heart of an immense darkness.” —The Heart of Darkness
Congo.
There is something about the word. Of all the countries in Africa, none seem to have quite the same sordid reputation for savagery and despair as the Congo.
Perhaps it is Joseph Conrad’s infamous novel that drives this association. But sometimes fact is as foul as fiction. In the Congo, the facts are appalling.
In the late 19th century, Belgium’s King Leopold exploited the Congo as his personal playground, killing up to half the population. A hundred years later, a civil war ravaged the country, killing over five million. In the interim, first the Belgians and then a series of maniacal local leaders brutally dominated the country.
There are two Congos: Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC or Congo-Kinshasa), formerly a Belgian colony, and Republic of the Congo (Congo-Brazzaville), formerly a French colony. Both gained independence in 1960. When most refer to the Congo, they mean the much larger and more unwieldy DRC, to which the saying goes something like, “It is neither democratic nor a republic, but it certainly is the Congo.”
My initial idea was to compare and contrast the two Congos – the DRC is literally the poorest country in the world and is also considered one of most dangerous, while the Republic of Congo sits 60 spots higher on the income rankings and is considered safe.
But after visiting both, the more significant difference seems to be between the historical perception of both countries and reality today.
Congo-Brazzaville
Our flying time to Brazzaville from Kinshasa will be 4 minutes at an altitude of 8,000 feet.
As I sit on an Ethiopian Airlines Boeing 767-300 wide-body jet with over 200 other people, I wonder about the sanity of taking a 4 minute flight between the two closest capital cities in the world. But everything I read online strongly advised against the alternative: a slow-moving and overcrowded ferry.
Brazzaville’s reputation as safe and quiet proves well-founded. I spend my days wandering around the city, visiting markets, eating in outdoor restaurants, and drinking beers on the Congo River.
It is Kinshasa that gives me heartburn.
Even the ever-upbeat Lonely Planet, which makes Detroit sound like an undiscovered gem, can only muster the following for Kinshasa:
The same maniacal drivers, dismaying poverty, mounds of trash, belching black tailpipes and persistent street hawkers that you’ve seen in many other African cities, but here it’s all bigger, faster and louder than you’ve experienced before.
This is a city where Rwandans, who experienced a genocide less than twenty years ago, told me I needed an armored car to travel around safely.
I can see Kinshasa from Brazzaville’s riverside. The two cities are closer than San Francisco and Oakland. The World Bank predicts the two cities will become Africa’s largest metropolitan area by 2025. Yet, bureaucracy and corruption makes the crossing challenging and expensive. Normalizing for income, the same trip between San Francisco and Oakland would cost $2,000.
Congo-Kinshasa
I ultimately fly from Brazzaville to Addis Ababa and then to Kinshasa; or about 3,700 miles to cover a distance of 50 miles. I murmur a silent prayer of apology to the carbon footprint gods as the plane lands.
At the Kinshasa airport, UN planes outnumber commercial aircraft by 10 to 1. That major airlines like Ethiopian fly wide-bodied jets to Kinshasa is by itself testament to Kinshasa’s progress.
After exiting the airport, I expect dirt roads packed with hordes of destitute people. I nervously check and re-check to ensure all the car doors are securely locked, as the State Department emphatically advises. Yet I am greeted with a freshly paved six lane wide highway. Traffic flows orderly. Buildings look respectable. Locals wander from store to store on weekend shopping excursions.
I ask Diego, my new Congolese friend, about politics. It seems that in both Congo-Brazzaville and Congo-Kinshasa things are currently quite calm, but there is uncertainty about the future – namely, whether the current leaders of the country would step down peacefully. Sadly, autocratic leaders staying on past their expiration dates is one of the stereotypes about Africa that has substantial truth behind it.
I soon learn that everything that was possible in Brazzaville is also feasible in Kinshasa. Although Kinshasa’s population of ten million is twice the entire country of Congo-Brazzaville, the city does not feel overwhelmingly crowded. My sidekick is a petite American female who regularly explores the city on her own. Walking around the city is no problem. We wander through the central market and not a single one of the thousands of other shoppers hassles us. I once again enjoy cold beers on the Congo River and dinners of fresh goat and chicken kebabs on the street.
Lasting Reputations, Evolving Realities
While the “most dangerous” city in Africa still faces serious crime and poverty, its characterization as a destitute hellhole feels unwarranted.
To be fair, Kinshasa and the DRC have improved in the last five years. As one Congolese woman tells me, “Kinshasa is much more modern now; there have been many changes in the last 5 years.”
Another Congolese gentleman tells me, “We run a country almost half the size of the US on the budget of a small town.” New York City spends ten times more on public schools than the DRC does on its entire national budget.
Yet, reputations linger despite evolving realities. For many, including myself until recently, a book published over a hundred years ago serves as the definitive source on the Congo.
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That’s so sad 🙁 “New York City spends ten times more on public schools than the DRC does on its entire national budget”
What a crazy statistic, right?! Suddenly the lack of infrastructure seems much more reasonable.
Belgium is just the worst.
But that’s awesome things seem to be on the right track, and I love all the colored umbrellas. Great first leg of the journey keep up the solid work 🙂
Thanks, Andrew. They certainly manage to excel at some things (beer, chocolate), but colonialism never quite seemed to be their forte.
Incorrect. Belgium was excellent at colonialism. The results of colonialism are not supposed to be positive for the colonized nation. They are supposed to be positive for the colonizing nation. And they have been.
I suppose by that definition they were indeed successful — but it’s akin to being “successful” at apartheid or genocide.
Neat post, it’s cool that you got to visit both cities! For the record, in addition to slow barge between Kin and Brazza that you mention, there are also speed boat between the two. They take about 30 mins and cost about $25, as I recall. The barge is for merchandise, vehicles, and people who cannot afford the speedboat. That’s why it’s so crowded and slow. On the other hand, the speed boat is just what you’d expect it to be. I didn’t take it myself, as I didn’t have a visa for Brazza, but I recall seeing speedboats on the river. Personally, if I had the time and was looking for a cultural experience, I would totally take the slow barge across (just watch out for pickpockets, as you would in any crowded place). Congolese people live for months at a time on barges like this, going upriver to Kisangani from Kin.
Kin has gotten safer since January, as the police have conducted a huge “clean up” of the shegue (street boys) and kuluna (machete gangs). As I understand, some were imprisoned, and some were just shot in the streets. I was in Kin recently after the “clean up” and did not see a single sheque, but I heard that before, you could not move an inch through the city center without being mobbed by the shegue.
I’m also curious if you managed to get outside the city center at all? The city changes A LOT once you leave the center, basically turning into a 10 million person village — dirt roads, mud brick buildings, and all that. And it gets more crowded, too!
If anyone’s ever interested in doing a trip through the DRC and wants some practical info, check out this thread: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/africa/congo-the-democratic-republic-of/backpacking-in-the-drc-is-possible?page=1
After speaking to people on the ground, I definitely would take a boat across the river. A common theme from this trip: what seemed impossible and terrifying based on external sources turned out to be quite fine when actually speaking with people who live the reality on a daily basis.
I made it to the outskirts of both cities but never quite outside. As you mention, the feel of both cities did change quite dramatically and quickly.
I definitely want to explore more of both countries next time around, although perhaps not exactly replicating your entire epic journey.
I am using this article for a school project for my French class and it is a big help! We read about the optimistic tourist look between the two locations and it was interesting to see that Kinshasa and Brazzaville are not as glamorous as the textbook makes them out to be. I love the pictures associated with this article. It’s so cool that you got to go visit these cities and experience it. It is terrible that New York City spends ten times more on public schools than the DRC does on its entire national budget.
I agree!
It was very interesting to hear about your trip. we are learning about the two cities in my french class, it is very beneficial to hear from people who have actually been there. While there were you able to learn about the lifestyles between the people? I’m interested to know if life is different between Brazzaville and Kinshasa people.
There are certainly differences — but a bit more like the differences between California and New Mexico than California and China, for instance. Glad to hear you’re learning about this part of the world!
Thank you for the additional perspective. It is truly unfortunate that history can separate communities, even the ones that are so close. It is great to be able to see a real observation to fully comprehend the conflicts of the world, and that not all is what the media may tell us. Thanks again
I am in DRC, Kinshasa to be precise and I am struck by the absolute beauty of the country. The might, rapidly flowing Congo river with Congo B on the otherside. The juxtaposition of poverty with progress is a shock to the senses but the people are friendly and warm. I cannot wait to see this country develop and reach its full potential. What a pleasant experience once within the country itself. The processes to get here are another story of course. Rise beautiful DRC, rise!
Terrific piece, and look forward to reading several more such travel notes from you. The lingering question is why is there such an economic difference, albeit narrowing over time between the two Congos?
[…] situated in West Africa and the latter (a Belgian colony) in Central Africa. Fascinating read here about the tale of two. 5. Croatia – note to self to visit beautiful Split (second largest […]
Thank you for this piece. I like hearing these things about Africa. I’m glad it’s improving.
NYC public school budget is $24B. DRC gouvernemental budget is $14B
Micgel- do you have a source for the $14B? My numbers are from a few years ago. The latest number I could find for the DRC budget is 2015, which was ~$9B USD. So while no longer 10 to 1, it’s still 3 to 1, which still seems crazy.
Don’ t know if you are still interested in Congo, but I’m getting ready to teach English to some refugees from there. They are now in the US. I have read so much about the Congo, I just don’t know what to expect. I’m a former Peace Corps volunteer.
The Congo has just entered my conscious after reading “In the body of the world” Eve Ensler. The hellhouse you refer to is still there, burning in the females, needing support. The City of Joy could use so much more support. King Leopold II of Belgium massacred 10 million and practiced the cutting off of hands. The mineral conflicts of the 3TGs that end up in our electronics. So much I don’t know. #RiseInSolidarity
DRC may be one of the poorest countries in the world. However, It is well known that it should be the richest country in the world due to its numberless rich minerals. The instability of the country is not just because of the current situation or what has been happening perhaps 10 years ago but this links to the struggle and the corrupt leaders that the DRC have been placed with years ago.
I think you should read much more about the DRC so the next time you go back you may even see ten times more the beauty of the country.
DRC is poor because the continuous leadership of Kabilas has nothing good for the country. They should employ Kenyan expatriates to set realistic 10 year plans and other long term development plans. They should further embrace democracy and stop shaming Africa with the mentality of recycling over-used leadership.
The richest land on the planet is also the poorest. How is that possible?. Simple. Keep the Congo destabilized so exploitation would be that much simpler. Africa, in particular the Congo, has always been the bread basket for the west.
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful experience on both Congos. Awesome places !
Thank you so much from this post! I’m a re-etnry (adult) student in a class about colonization and globalization, and decided to use “The Congo” for a paper because my previously received DNA results confirmed I’m 19% Congolese. It was complicated to figure out why there wasn’t “just a Congo,” and which one to choose. Your perspective helps me greatly in deciding, as well as in being less intimidated about visiting there.
I’m also a San Francisco native and current Oakland resident. Your comparison was very helpful, while also seemingly reflective of how everyone outside of Oakland still thinks it or parts of it are perpetual scenes from the crack epidemic in the 90s.
Thanks again! I look forward to sharing my experience one day, and contributing to holistic restoration in places like these.
Thanks Paul for giving us an optimistic depiction of whats happening in the two Congo countries. unfortunately most of the information on the internet paints a very grimy and dangerous picture of Congo-Kin. This article has been an eye opener for me, and I now have even a great desire to visit both sides of the Congo river.
Can’t wait to read the next series in your writings about Congo-Braz and Congo-Kin. Thanks for sharing your experiences
I have admitted several children from both congos in my school in New Delhi India. They are good students learning very well.
I’ve been fortunate to have traveled to 30 countries and studied architecture in Paris for 3 months in 1992. I was then an English teacher in S. Korea for almost 20 years which allowed me to explore some countries in Asia. My next goal is Africa which, like you said, appears so “dangerous” and in disarray! I’m going to see the 2 Congos because of this article! The funny thing about traveling is that the more you do so one realizes how little you actually know about the world!
[…] some 75 million residents, it is Africa’s second largest country by area. It is also considered one of the poorest and most dangerous countries in the world. When people say “Congo”, they are usually referring […]
Great post–read it after finishing “Dancing in the Glory of Monsters”
[…] situated in West Africa and the latter (a Belgian colony) in Central Africa. Fascinating read here about the tale of two. 5. Croatia – note to self to visit beautiful Split (second largest […]
[…] war. Arguably the most overlooked country in the world, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), different from the Congo, is currently experiencing one of the largest refugee situations in the world with 4.5 million […]
I am in the middle of reading book about Congo by David van Reybrouck. Very sad story. Thanks for the story about Congos.
It is beautiful place on Earth, but so much hatred. What a pity!
Thank you for the additional perspective. It is truly unfortunate that history can separate communities, even the ones that are so close. It is great to be able to see a real observation to fully comprehend the conflicts of the world, and that not all is what the media may tell us. Thanks again