
Why I’m quitting my job to go to Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Somalia
On March 26, 2014, I will quit my job as a management consultant in San Francisco.
The very next day, I’m going to board a plane to Pakistan.
The Long Journey To Pakistan
My family decided that last summer was a great opportunity to go overseas together. We picked Turkey. While researching the region, I chanced upon a destination that I didn’t realize was on the tourist map: Erbil, Iraq.
The New York Times called Erbil a “tourist boom town”. Surely not. Perhaps they meant before 2003? No, this was 2013.
The US State Department Iraq Travel Warning indicated Iraq was anything but safe: the words terrorism, kidnapping, and IED stood out prominently. It did state Erbil, part of a semi-autonomous Kurdish region, was safer, but still strongly advised against all travel. A Google search for Iraq also returned only stories of car bombings and sectarian violence.
Two competing narratives
But I was left wondering about which of the two narratives were true. These were two very different stories about the same place — surely one of them must be right?
Much to the horror of my parents, I decided to find out myself.
I flew into the sleepy Erbil airport late at night with a friend from college who was as brave — or foolish — as I was. The immigration officer raised an eyebrow when I stated tourism as my reason for visiting — but smiled, issued a visa, and wished me a pleasant trip. We caught a Land Cruiser taxi from the airport and rolled down the windows to catch the warm evening breeze. The driver turned up a local Kurdish radio station.
It oddly felt like spring break in the desert.
The next morning, we left our hotel to explore town. The front desk advised us that it was safe to venture out unaccompanied. A pleasant fifteen minute stroll later, we arrived downtown. Almost immediately, two nervous-looking local teenagers made their way towards us.
As much as it shames me to admit it in retrospect, my adrenaline kicked into high gear. What were their intentions? What were they concealing under those bulky jackets? And why were they not making eye contact?
As they approached, the explanation quickly became clear. They wanted to take a photo with us. This interaction would repeat itself everywhere. We were a novelty. New York Times hype aside, we were the only tourists we saw during our time in Kurdistan. When it comes to travel advice, it seems more people heed the State Department than a NYT blog.
We proceeded to play Indiana Jones around the Erbil Citadel, supposedly the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world. It was exhilarating to freely explore such a historic site completely alone.
Afterward we visited a local kiosk to procure cold drinks. A man approached us and started to chat. He had lived in Michigan for a bit. Ultimately, he refused to let us pay for our drinks, drove us to our next destination, and invited us to dinner with his family.
This type of hospitality would continue to repeat itself over the course of our visit.
Our next day was even more surprising. We went to an “amusement park” four hours north of Erbil. The drive was stunning — think Grand Canyon in Iraq. The park itself was no different from what you would find in America: unhealthy food and screaming children everywhere. The highlight was an extremely fun (and perhaps slightly dangerous) luge ride through the valley. More photos with locals. A Ferris wheel. Soft-serve. Again, not what I would have ever imagined any part of Iraq to feel like.
On our way back home, we could not find a taxi to take us back to the bus stop. Eventually, four young Iraqi army officers on vacation from Baghdad offered us a ride in their Toyota Corolla.
I would never hitch-hike in California, but somehow felt perfectly safe doing so in Kurdistan. Sadly, no video exists of this clown-car-esque ride: four Iraqi troops and two American tourists driving through the desert with windows down and Arabic pop music blaring.
Taking Stock
Parts of Iraq are decidedly dangerous and many terrible things are undeniably occurring.
But why do we only ever hear about car bombings in Baghdad?
Yes, there was an attack in Erbil soon after we left. That said, not a single foreigner has been killed or kidnapped in all of Kurdistan since the 2003 invasion of Iraq. The thriving Kurdish economy and Kurdish amusement parks receive very little press.
Focusing on the negative is not unique to conflict zones and developing countries. One study found 17:1 ratio of negative to positive news articles. Some psychologists believe evolution wired us to seek news of dramatic, negative events as they pose a greater threat to survival than normal and positive ones.
This negativity bias is more pronounced when it comes to developing countries. The Middle East and Africa are particularly maligned. As one official notes: “American media provide misguided and unbalanced accounts of Africa motivated by the pursuit of the sensational — coups, corruption, crocodile attacks, and quaint tribal rites.”
So what?
Fortunately, when watching the local evening news, we intuitively know that it is one-sided. We experience life in our city and country every day. This gives us context to counterbalance the violence and despair depicted in the media.
Conversely, in places like the Middle East and Africa, few of us have direct experience to serve as a counterbalance. The trap is that we believe, whether consciously or unconsciously, that the news forms a representative sample of life in these countries. We depend on the media to help us develop a view on people and places. When it comes to far away places, the news is often our primary source — and therefore instrumental in shaping our perceptions, actions and policy.
What would the rest of the world think of America if they only relied on headlines? An average day in America would begin with a drive to school over a collapsing bridge only to arrive at the school in the midst of a shooting. Drug dealers would crowd the streets on the drive home. Sleep only happens next to an automatic weapon — to protect against a government that, if not shut down, was constantly spying on you.
A hypothesis and plan
My hypothesis: even countries largely maligned by the media have a more nuanced, more everyday — and perhaps even more normal — story, one that is largely missed by the media.
Humans are humans, everywhere. They range from saints to sinners. The headlines primarily devote their attention to the bad actors, while ignoring the decent ones who comprise the majority of day-to-day existence almost everywhere.
The plan is to take ~3 months to explore some of these “scary” places to seek out a glimpse of the everyday — and share a few stories that go “beyond the headlines”. This is hypothesis driven: I will ultimately share whatever I encounter, good or bad.
The tentative itinerary includes Pakistan, Afghanistan, Somalia, Iran, Mali, Eritrea, Burundi, and the Congos.
And yes, the plan is to seek out the calmer parts of each country. I will not visit the tribal lands of Pakistan or Darfur. Those stories garner enough attention as it is.
Please follow along
The plan to publish as I go — and share a glimpse of everyday life in these places that from our part of the world, seem so much less than everyday. Please sign up for occasional email updates (a few times a month, at most) and follow along on Instagram.
What do you think? Will I be pleasantly surprised? Or are the headlines more accurate than I believe?
Paul,
It’s so invigorating to see someone who’s not content contemplating his navel in a prescribed existence! Godspeed…anticipating wonderful stories….!!
Jacques Farache
Safe travels and keep on inspiring us, Paul! The world needs more young people like you to challenge and deconstruct discourses that keep people misinformed, stereotypes alive and well and the global hegemony and power structures intact… as you said, humans and humans everywhere, and I believe underneath the media constructions of difference as deficiencies, much more common ground exists. May your travels lead to wonderful stories and insights that can inspire and change many a soul to come!
Sending my best wishes from Chile,
Zilin
This is so exciting and inspiring! I can’t wait to follow along with your adventures!
I’m looking forward to reading about your adventures! I can already tell I will be learning so much from your reflections. Happy journey-ing! : )
One of these days…when you’re back and have internet access again…you need to read “A short walk in the Hindu Kush” by Eric Newby….I think you’ll find quite the kindred spirit writing about his travels some 60 years ago…
Best of luck and stay safe!
Julia, there is plenty of internet access to be had in Pakistan and the rest of these countries.
We have internet in Pakistan! (and lots of other fun things to do as well, surprise!)
People who can build nukes don’t have Internet?? 😀
Such perceptions are just amazing!
Rabayl,
You will find internet in some hotels and also their are wi-fi internet services in some resturants in Pakistan.
Their are more than 2.4 Million users on facebook from Pakistan.
Internet service is their even in small towns in the country.
I love this idea – looking forward to the updates!
Best of luck to you but the sad truth is, you can only embark on this adventure because you are NOT a female. If you were, I predict your blog posts chronicling your journey would look vastly different than they will.
P, I don’t know what your experience is, but I’m female and have traveled all over the world alone, including in southern Russia, Egypt, Jordan, Palestine, Syria (before the civil war), Turkey, and Croatia.
There are no doubt places where it is a disadvantage to be a woman, but in my travels so far I’ve been 99% treated with respect, kindness, and hospitality. I take sensible precautions if things don’t feel right, but in general I feel safer alone in most places in the world than I do in the US.
I wrote a book called Fast Times in Palestine that tells the story of my times in that wonderful (but very mistreated) part of the world. You can check it out at http://www.pamolson.org
@P – I suspect you might be correct while at the same time hoping that you are wrong. Unfortunately, it is probably not something I will be able to thoughtfully comment on even after the journey is completer. But I will keep an eye out for the role women play in each of the places I visit and report back.
Please do report back on this!
You will be shocked what Pakistan is like after the headlines – if you’re in Islamabad give us a shout!
P beat me to it- I’ve often thought about doing something like this but am hesitant to do so as a female. Interested to read your observations on the matter. Have fun!
Way to go Paul!
The only country on your map I’d beware about is Eritrea though because I know many refugees as it’s my husband father’s origin. The dictator does play pool in cafes, which says a lot about how secure feels… there is a fabulous touristic island not far from the capital.
I’d love to know if you can find some Sao people in their original mountains, it seems as they have entirely been pushed out.
@emily Like Pamela Olson said, I’ve also been traveling alone (Romania, Cambodia, Ethiopia…) as a young small good looking female with no fighting skills, and I actually thought it was safer than to be a male, as long as you are intuitive enough. Because most people who would like to fight would feel shame to attack a woman. And most people you meet are so surprised to see you that they feel responsible for your security:-)
As for rape, it seems that where it’s happening a lot to local women, foreigners are not much targeted.
But God knows!
Have a wonderful traveling life everyone! Keep us posted Paul!!!
Awesome adventure Paul! Be safe & rock on!
Have fun Paul! Can’t wait to read all about it 🙂
Best of luck Paul. Hope you enjoy your visit to this lovely place.
Hey! very brave of you to walk out of your comfort zone. On you visit to Pakistan , Visit Lahore and i will take you to the most ancient sites , Bazar’s and Eateries!
You have my email ID let me know.
Give me a call when you come down to pakistan – Lahore is the city where i am based..its a must visit place….
come down to the other side…..
Dear Paul,
Good luck for your journey.
It is quite unfair to equate Pakistan with Afghanistan and Somalia: There are stark differences. While both Afghanistan and Somalia are barren and war-torn, Pakistan is a prosperous and thriving country.
You are going to be in for a shock once you visit Islamabad and Lahore. Be sure not to miss the parties!
Cheers
@Arslan: I agree with you. But honestly, until I started doing research for this trip, I might not have agreed with you. The way Pakistan is covered in the United States is as a war-torn, Osama bin Laden hiding, failed state. Having spoken to many Pakistanis, I certainly do not believe this to be true, but I suspect many Americans and other Westerners still largely have a similar view, if only based on the amount of concern people have expressed for me visiting a place like Lahore.
I look forward to the visit!
the perception Americans have about Pakistan and the perceptions we Pakistanis have about Afghanistan are not too different. The funny thing is, the reality is just as different, in both cases.
Hi Paul,
Yes, it is unfortunate that media has also played a negative role (for whatever reasons) in propagating such image. However a careful research would also reveal that a lot many US companies are operating here and have their offices direct or through franchise/partner models. I work for IT and all the big names of IT are directly present in this country. Having said that, the stock exchange of Karachi is one of the top most ranking for high returns.
Largest outlet of Johnny Rockets in the world is based out of Lahore, something that I heard from their management in Karachi while visiting them recently.
Having said all the above, it is only that 5% or less minority who are fanatics and into all negative activities (not to mention supported by some foreign hands for political gains). The 95% of people like us are the most unfortunate because we have to suffer from their activities inside Pakistan and outside Pakistan we are labelled as them and even discriminated for the same reasons. Hence it feels good to have someone like you share your true experience with the world. Please keep doing that.
It’s wonderful that you are trying to explore the truth on your own. During your visit to Pakistan, if you happen to pass by Karachi, then i will be more than glad to show you around. You will definitely see a different side to the country as what’s being portrayed in the media.
It was really inspiring to see your spirit and sense of adventure. Travel safe and welcome to Pakistan! 🙂
Would love to meet up if you plan on visiting Lahore (rather, you should visit Lahore)
I am from Pakistan, some places may have bad conditions than other, but its like human deal and adopt to the weather. Best of luck.
I’m really glad to hear that finally people from the west have such opinion about travelling to Pakistan.
@P I’ve lived in Islamabad all my life and it’s the safest place I know. Where ever there are people, there is crime and violence. If something happens in the west, the media cries about the rising crime rate. If the same happens in the east, it’s automatically stamped as terrorism. It’s just manipulation of words that have shut the doors to these countries. Come and see for yourself. It’s a whole different world out here. If you have questions about how women are here in Pakistan, I’ll be glad to answer. 🙂
Have a safe journey. I hope I bump into you if you’re ever in Islamabad, Paul. But I warn you, the weather is usually weird these days. Summers are approaching but I’d suggest you pack a jacket, just in case, because the winter showers can turn the weather around. Have fun!
Hey Paul.
You’re on the right track. I’m sure you will learn and enjoy a lot.
When you’re in Pakistan and if you need anything – do let me know. I would love to be part of your experience 🙂
Hey Paul,
Greetings from Pakistan. It feels good to see someone with an ambition to explore the ground realities, not entirely believing the image portrayed by the Media. I believe your visit to Pakistan will be a lifetime experience and you’ll enjoy every bit of it.
Do visit Islamabad, you’ll fall in love with the place. Oh! And don’t miss visiting northern areas. The scenic beauty and the hospitality of people will leave you speechless, I’m sure.
Waiting for some amazing accounts of your journey.
Stay blessed and have a safe journey!
Hey Paul, Nice to hear about your plans.
I am currently living in Dubai but i am basically from Pakistan. I would like to appreciate your thoughts and idea to visit Pakistan, you will be very amazed and happy to meet our people there, do visit cities like Islamabad and Lahore(For cultural food and activities), Also don’t forget to visit northern areas (Naran, Swaat, Neelum velley).
And do share your thoughts with us after your visit, i hope you will love every bit of your stay over there.
Regards,
Dani
Good luck, Paul! Have a great time… I’m sure you’ve already read Robert Young Pelton’s “Three Worlds Gone Mad” and Carl Hoffman’s “The Lunatic Express,” but if not, you might find their stories interesting.
I’d be more than happy to take you around and show you Islamabad when you come here ! have fun travelling!
May you have safe and healthy journey. We are anxiously waiting for you to come PAKISTAN.
And I bet you will find surprising results. Its not all about what media says.
I dont know much about others but PAKISTANIs are one of the most peaceful people of the world. I am sure you will have a great adventurous trip ever with full of love and colours of life in PAKISTAN…. 🙂
I really appreciate on your optimistic approach. May Allah keep you you safe and give you success 🙂
Ah dang, you’re coming to Pakistan right when I’ll be leaving Karachi for Canada (visiting the West for the first time for a month long vacation). Guess we’ll both be discovering completely new worlds 🙂
Not sure if you’ll be visiting Karachi, but if you dooooo, here are a few suggestions: don’t go to Sea View, lol it’s awful; Manora Beach or French Beach or Diver’s Reef are much nicer. Also, I would recommend eating Chicken or Mutton Karhai at Afridi Inn (& BBQ Tonight nearby has the best Pakistani food overall). I would HIGHLY recommend going to Sunday Bazaar in DHA Phase 8. It’s got literally EVERYTHING (excluding electronic devices). From branded shoes, clothes, bags, books, carpets, cutlery, garage sale stuff.. Most of it is second hand though but I’m sure you’ll find stuff you like if you explore it well. Then there’s the Quaid’s Mosuleum. It’s nothing out of the ordinary but not bad a place to visit in the evening. 🙂
(Ignore ^ this if you’re not visiting Karachi haha.) Anyways, thank you so much for coming to our country, Hope you have a great time here inshaAllah! God bless! 🙂
Hey great read. Most welcome to Karachi. Do drop a line if you are in town. Will be a pleasure hosting you and your family.
On the first leg of your grand journey, I, like all Pakistanis, would love to welcome you. Apart from the main cities as already mentioned by so many, you might want to take a day trip to: a) some rural areas in the peripheries of the main cities, and b) if you have the time, one of the many “Galiyat” (mountainous regions/vales).
Hope to see plenty of updates, and frankly, I’m also hoping that this site goes viral; everyone could enjoy some positive coverage!
Best of luck for your adventures. Once you visit, you will know Pakistan as one of the most hospitable countries and love it for its beauty. Do connect when you’re in Islamabad, I would love to show you around, even the northern areas =)
I’m looking forward to reading about your experiences. I did the same when I visited Syria in 2009, against all the advice of friends, family, and media. But don’t get too cocky. Reputations mean something.
I would also be sure to recognize that you are largely able to travel in these places without worry because you are a man. A woman traveler would have many, many more concerns, whether of mistreatment in Pakistan/Afghanistan/Somalia because of Muslim mores or in the Congos, (specifically DR Congo, where a woman is raped every 20 minutes.)
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go there and you shouldn’t have the adventures you will have. But recognize the privilege that is getting you there.
Alissa, please be careful painting broad strokes about “mistreatment… because of Muslim mores.” I lived in the Muslim world for over two years and was never particularly mistreated (not any worse than women are treated in general in this world — and in many ways I was treated much better due to all the amazing hospitality and an overabundance of help and kindness).
My husband (whom I met in New York) is Muslim and would not mistreat a fly, much less a woman. I’m a deeply independent person, and he married me knowing that full well. I would not marry a man who didn’t treat me as a full equal.
I’m sure you mean well, just please be aware of overly broad strokes that perpetuate damaging, unhelpful, and often overblown stereotypes. Severe mistreatment of women is a huge problem in many parts of the world, including in many cases in the Muslim world, but there are many more shades of grey than most Westerners are aware of.
Even though I am still at the airport waiting to leave the US, I already regret not allocating more time to Pakistan based on all the generous offers of hospitality. Thank you all for your kindness. I look forward to sharing my experience — hopefully the first visit of many!
Don’t listen to the State Department warnings. Follow your instinct. You’ll find SO MUCH BEAUTY…. Can’t wait to see you unleash that on your blog!
If you swing by Lahore, definitely let me know!
Paul you are most welcome in Pakistan. You can see some of the places I have photographed during my frequent visits in the pics I have posted on my facebook.
Have a safe travel & Godspeed!
Have a safe journey and enjoy every moment! Wish I could tag along. 🙂 Look forward to reading your honest take on this parts of the world that are largely hidden from the Western eye.
Quick funny story: When I first got to Palestine, people asked where I was from, and I said, “Oklahoma.”
To my surprise they seemed impressed and said, “Wow, that’s a dangerous place!”
I said, “Uh… what have you heard about Oklahoma?”
They said, “Wasn’t there a bombing? Many people killed?”
“Er… yeah, one bombing. Ten years ago…”
And yet that was all they knew about it! So they had a totally skewed view of life in Oklahoma. It made me think, “Dang, what do I have a totally skewed view of because I only hear about its disasters?”
That’s an excellent example!
Welcome to Pakistan. Do not forget to visit the majestic Himalayan Region of Gilgit Baltistan. I am sure you will forget about everything else you have seen here. I shall be more than happy to be your tour guide!
Dear Paul,
I look forward to your stories. I am a resident of Pakistan and would be delighted to host you. I have signed up for your articles and you can extract my email from your database. Would love to show you around the city of Lahore.
If there was a competition of HOSPITALITY in olympics Pakistan would always have been a Gold Medalist 🙂
https://www.facebook.com/pakistanthebeautifull/photos_stream
Let us know when you reach here, would love to host you guys in Karachi. Great to see people still believe in people these days rather than just news articles.
Cheers!
Welcome to Pakistan Paul!!
Dont miss Lahore in your trip.
I bet you’ll fall in love with this place.
Hello Paul,
I welcome your decision to visit Pakistan. If it was up to us, we could give you a red carpet welcome 🙂
You will find people here very nice and hospitality is great. Things are very different here than shown in western media. If you ever happen to come to islamabad, be my gues. I run a software company here and would be more than happy to show you around.
Just so you know. Easy Taxi service is now available in pakistan. You can also download their app and get a taxi in few minutes.
Welcome and have a great journey
Khurram
Hi Paul:
I live in Singapore and work in an American International School. I once met an American lady and she was taken aback when she got to know I am from Pakistan. She had Apparently spent 15 or so years in the northern areas of Pakistan. She had started relief work in Waziristan and then due to security issues there(in Waziristan not the northern areas) she shifted back. But she was so much in love with the mountains in Pakistan that she had told her kids that before,i die,take me back there. because that’s where I want to take my last breath. I recently came across these pictures taken by a foreign photographer. One of them has been chosen by Microsoft to be their official Desktop picture. You would love to see them! 21 of the largest peaks in the world are in Pakistan. People who have seen both Pakistan and Switzerland, say that Pakistan is way more beautiful-reason being,its all untouched beauty. You might want to read 3 Cups of tea http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Cups_of_Tea. It focuses on the hospitality of a common man in pakistan! I am sure, 1 trip to Lahore, Islamabad, and northern areas, would make you fall in love:)
Hey Paul,
I can see all my crazy Pakistani fellows have already ‘hijacked’ your blog entry, but I hope another comment by another crazy Pakistani would not hurt you 🙂
I lived all my life here in Lahore, and have explored many parts of Pakistan. I work in the software industry and have visited SFO bay area too, which looks more like Islamabad of Pakistan, if I draw a comparison of the terrian.
The only two problems you’ll encounter in the cities like Lahore, Pindi and Karachi is ‘mad traffic’, and hot weather. And as you’ve experienced already, albiet virtually, you’ll find us less crazy than we sound, and more on the hospitable side.
Ending this with yet another offer to be your host in Lahore and to show you around.
Hoping my beard wouldn’t scare you 😉
Hi Paul,
I admire your bravery for taking such a big leap of faith and am very happy that you enjoyed your time in Erbil, Iraq. I am sure your next journey would be even more exciting. I will definitely be looking forward for updates.
As far as Pakistan is concerned, its true that media focusses too much on the negatives. You will enjoy your time here in the cities but the most scenic places are to the North of Islamabad. You and your family are welcome here and I would love to be your tour guide if you dont already have one. I am based in Islamabad and frequent Northern areas every summer.
Inspiring decision u have made. i,m sure u,ll be warmly welcome by Pakistanis from the very start up to the end. I offer my sincere gratitude to have u as a guest as you come across Sindh province. i guess i can manage somedays of work to show you what we really. feel free to mail me. Best of luck
Hey Paul: If you are planning to visit Pakistan and missing on a visit to Peshawar, you are missing the adventure. Do come over and check the “New Silk Route”. Let me know if I could be of any help. Naji
Based on the date of your last post your already well on your journey or you have already landed. Either way greetings from Pakistan… and i hope you have a wonderful experience wherever you go. You already have a lot of offers of hospitality from Lahore, however, one more never hurt anyone. So drop me a line if you need anything while your here.
BTW if you come to Lahore you have to visit the Badshahi Mosque and the Lahore Fort (Lahore used to be a Fort) they are right next to each other. There is some road construction going on near the area but if your willing to make a bit of effort i think you will agree that its worth it. Also when you go there you should goto this Restaurant called Andaaz… its one of may fav places to goto not just because of the superb food but also the view.
Above all… be safe, have fun, make new friends and take lots of pictures.
Cheers.
As a development professional i have had the opportunity to work and live both in Erbil in Iraq and Lahore/ Islamabad in Pakistan. Erbil, as you point out is a lovely place and you are in for a surprise with Pakistan. Islamabad is one of the most beautiful capitals in the world and Lahore is a culture power house. The walled city in Lahore is not to be missed. My suggestions look at https://www.facebook.com/groups/oldlahorewalkabouts/
for an organized tour of the walled city of Lahore. Unfortunately i never got a chance to visit Karachi but i’ve heard good things about Karachi as well. Good luck and God bless.
People are the same everywhere, we should stop hate and discrimination and just accept all, it was a really nice article! 🙂
Safe travels! I look forward to getting your updates. What an amazing adventure you’re setting out on.
Hey Paul! Good luck with your Pakistan leg of the trip. If you go to Lahore, (higly recommended) PUH-LEEZ go to Shah Jamal’s shrine on a friday night for one of the most memorable audio-visual experiences of your life. I won’t spoil the surprise for you but a few tips if you do end up going: a) Take a cussion with you (no seats there), b) take a big bottle of water (if you leave for a water/washroom break, your spot is gone), c) Do NOT wear your sunday best, and d) reach there before 9:30pm or you won’t find a good spot (best spot is right behind puppu saeen, the star of the show)
Paul, good luck on your journey. I’m sure you will find your hypothesis true. If you haven’t read Danziger’s Travels, I think you would find a kindred spirit from an earlier generation. He certainly inspired me when I was in my 20s. Take care
Been to Pakistan a few times to meet my friends in Lahore, Islamabad and up North. The weather is quite hot and there is a lot of pollution in some places however the people are amazing and the food is too good to be true. Pakistanis are so hospitable that you will even fall in love with the pollution and heat 🙂
I wish I get a chance to visit Pakistan again.
Enjoy your trip.
Dear Paul, Hi! If there is one thing that makes Pakistan stand out among the comity of nations – it’s the public hospitality. If you haven’t experienced it first-hand, you will not find out the true blessing it can be for the weary traveler – not until you sample it yourself. Nothing in the world comes close. And you can’t beat Lahore for its boundless love. The richness of culture, history, and natural warmth for wayfarers is the sole preserve of this lovely town. Seen through media headlines Pakistan looks like a hell-hole. But the secret that is Pakistan unfolds to those only who grace its soil with their presence. To get a taste of paradise, make it a point to visit Pakistan in summer – for mango season. There is no place on earth that will give you so rich a tapestry for every 50 miles traveled on road. Stay blessed!
You my man are absolutely inspiring. I’m Pakistani myself and even though I reside abroad I run back at every chance I get.. my parents live in Canada and their fearful voices ringing in my head. The what-ifs and what-nots can’t and shouldn’t stop you from exploring. I could die tomorrow but to just sit and wonder what the world holds while I listen to Fox news or CNN doesn’t make any sense to me.
When you do go out, what you discover is just beyond amazement. Yes, some parts of the city might be affected, but not all of them and you could be in the wrong place at the wrong time anywhere. So go and explore! Run wild and write about it because through you, this world will see a vision it really needs to see.
You should come visit me in Karachi, Pakistan. I run a home based catering business and would love to cook for you and have a drink together!
Best of luck!
Come to Islamabad, Pakistan!! Our homes are open to you!! Welcome and excellent approach to tackle negativity that exists in the world! we all need to step up and do out bit 🙂
Wonderful ! You’re going to love Pakistan, and be blown away by the hospitality shown to you. I look forward to reading about your visit.
Paul,
Love the passion. I live in Karachi. Look me up when you’re here. We’ll show you a good time!
All the best for the rest of the trip!
Best of luck and safe travels! Pakistan will welcome you with open arms 🙂
If you do decide to come to Pakistan i would be more than happy to be your host
Pakistan is more charming if you know people here so I suggest you hook up with some of the offers (do the necessary screening of course). Do visit Karachi, Lahore and even though Islamabad itself is not very interesting as a city, it is close to some scenic spots and Murree is close by and even Kashmir is a day’s trip away. Good luck.
Northern Areas of Pakistan,the most amazing places of the world.If you want to see the life,must visit!
Hi Paul, you already got so many offers that it looks your trip to Pakistan is on the house, welcome to Pakistan and don’t refuse a good offer! Best of luck
Hi Paul,
Do visit Lahore, Hunza, Islamabad, Skardu, Karachi during your stay in Pakistan. Besides all the historical places, do visit LUMS (a university in Lahore) and hang out with students over there. While in Islamabad, plan a trip to Taxill as well. Drop a line (email) in case you need any information or help while your stay here
Have an amazing and safe journey!
Regards,
Sadik
I will be in Lahore and Islamabad from April 27th thru May 10th if you are there send me an email and we can get in touch. I live in Orange County, CA
Hi Paul.
Boy oh boy was this a refreshing read!
I am from Pakistan myself and I think you will enjoy my beautiful country.
Please give me details of your trip — I would love to recommend places to visit and most of all, things to eat!
I am in Toronto at the moment; if I wasn’t I would have loved to show you around my city, Karachi.
Hey Paul! This is a fabulous plan 🙂 I’m from Pakistan and have lots of friends all over the country who can help show you around and help accommodate you 🙂 you should for sure explore the hill stations in the northern areas – email me!
Paul – Trust me visiting Pakistan will be one of the best trips you will ever make! As much as Fox media-types will tell you otherwise, it is a place full of amazing people that take pride in their hospitality and culture. Having been in the US 15+ years, I have utmost respect/appreciation for this place and it has made me who I am today BUT my heart still belong to my motherland, Pakistan. I make it a point to spend at least a month in Pak and, without fail, leave with a heavy heart and misty eyes when it is time to come back.
Since there’s so much to see, make sure you have some locals helping you filter out the place that are too touristy and can easily be skipped.
All the best, my friend. Please let me know (email) if need be and I can assure you everything will be taken care of for you in Lahore and Islamabad at least (stay, transportation, etc). Gentleman’s promise.
Sajid
Hey Paul,
I don’t suppose you would have a doubt about Pakistani hospitality with all the welcome notes 😉 Heres my vote of confidence: every single one of these people would love to have you!
Recently, we had my brother’s friend visit from Sweden for a week and he openly admitted about the trip being a major eye opener! He was a bit smitten with the donkey carts (it was fun to watch him snap pictures of each one as it passed 😉 ) and we taught him our native greeting (amongst other small things) “Asslamoalikum” to which he would prompt “Walaikumasslam” with a giant smile;)
My father was a tourist guide, the western perception of us managed to put a stop to it! (We still have amazing letters of thanks from all over the world from people who visited). For what its worth, we could give you any kind of details, a trip plan and so on if not the hosting part- I see you already have too many options of hosts already 🙂
Plus, I am a girl, and I am quite alright. There are problems, sure, but as everything else, these too have been exaggerated.
Thank you for your words! Absolutely refreshing. This is the first time I have EVER responded to a blog – your writing is just that meaningful!
Hope you have a great trip!
Qurat
Hi Paul,
It’s great to hear people like yourself who aren’t willing to blindly believe what our media tells us. I traveled to Africa and it was the best experience I’ve had so far and I believe your journey will be equally exhilarating and a humbling experience! Lahore, Islamabad and Karachi are a must visit if you come to Pakistan.
I recommend getting in touch with Moin Khan (facebook.com/ADifferentAgenda) if you’re looking to explore the country beyond the cities.
Best Regards and Good luck,
Saad
Great to know you will be visiting Pakistan – but seriously, avoid Baluchistan and the tribal areas… they are not over-dramatized, they really are dangerous – feel free to enjoy the rest of the country – if you have some Pakistani accompanying you, it would make for a better experience though
Best of luck for your adventures. Once you visit, you will know Pakistan as one of the most beautiful & hospitable countries. Do connect when you’re in Lahore. I would love to show you around, the old historical places of Lahore.
Best of luck for your adventures. Once you visit, you will know Pakistan as one of the most beautiful & hospitable countries. Do connect when you’re in Lahore. I would love to show you around, the old historical places of Lahore
Muhammad Ishaq
0092-300-8416342
Well done and I commend you for your plan! My husband (French) and i (German) have lived for years in Northern Pakistan, trekking, backbacking, living and working there and love this place like no other. We also published a book called “Pamir” on our travels to the Wakhan Corridor in North-West Afghanistan. Feel free to get in touch if you want some help and connections in these areas.
Pakistan is an amazing country to visit.
You must go to Karachi and visit ”food street”, wander Port Grand and immerse yourself in it’s beauty (better to go in evening), and have shisha in one of the ocean side hookah lounges sitting outside by a campfire type thing. Also go to Butler’s chocolate for an amazing chocolaty experience and don’t forget to stop by the Hot-Spot–They have some of the most amazing ice cream you will ever eat!
Also, visit Lahore to see the Diamond District and go to the infamous restaurant “Cuckoo’s Den”–make sure you sit outside to encompass the beautiful views.
I would ask you to visit Lahore. I got alot of travel caution advice as well. Even though I am born there. I visit earlier this year. The perception could not be further than reality.
Before I read your blog, I was just thinking of going again. Its a beautiful city, with two complete contrast, a very urban and westernized class and the other half of Lahore as time as stopped.
Paul, this is an incredible initiative and I applaud your open-mindedness. I hope you get to see Pakistan the way we see it and look forward to seeing your account of your time here. Feel free to get in touch and stay safe.
you’ll have an experience of a lifetime………:)
not only do i welcome you to Pakistan, but most welcome to be a guest, if you into couchsurfing 😀
Paul, this was such a refreshing read. I am an architect from Pakistan & I assure you, you will enjoy your trip vis-a-vis the architecture, culture & food. Being a working woman myself, I found it really interesting that you’d be reporting about the role women play in the places you visit. Looking forward! Stay blessed & have a safe journey!
Come to the North of Pakistanm and you will be more than impressed.
Did you know that the world’s highest 3 mountain ranges meet at one point in Pakistan at Barmas. Also here are some more links:
https://www.facebook.com/ExplorePakistan
http://www.dawn.com/news/881809/globetrotting-secret-sanctuary
http://www.wonderslist.com/10-best-natural-places-to-visit-in-pakistan/
Paul,
Best of luck for your adventures! I live in Karachi and have lived in most cities of Pakistan and have friends all over the country. Feel free to contact me if you need.
Godspeed!
Hi! I’m from Karachi Pakistan. Welcome to my city and country whenever you choose to visit. I promise you will be pleasantly surprised and will love the people, the places, the food, the culture, the everyday normal that we have to offer. Have met and known many foreigners who apprehensively came to Pakistan but left wondering what the hoo ho was all about! Safe travels and god speed!
Hi, and welcome to Pakistan.
It truly is an amazing countries, with rich traditional architectural master pieces like Shahi Qila to breath taking beauty of korakaram ranges. From sandy beaches of karachi and gawadar to deserts of cholistan. You will find such diversity of culture and trade, of planes and mountains, of language and rituals, that if you truly explore and travel through Pakistan, I am sure that you will fall in love with the country. Hospitality and respect, being the basic elements. The media propaganda does make it look like a country over shadowed by bombings and brutal inhumane acts but in truth it’s a country with loving people, misrepresented and misunderstood. And actually one of the most peace loving people. I have li ed almost my whole life in Pakistan and have been to various other countries, but still Pakistan is one country with most diverse landscapes and caring people.
Hope you have an amazing journey.
Best of luck!
You will love Pakistan. The news makes this beautiful country seem like a terrible place full of death and despair but you’ll find it to be the complete opposite.
There’s two sides to every story 😀
Safe travels <3
[…] it for the first day: I was happily busy hosting Paul Luning in Lahore (he is in the process of weaving a powerful story and I wanted to play my part – more on that […]
hi paul. happy travelling! which cities in pakistan will you be visiting? i would be happy to give you some suggestions as to what to do. i grew up in islamabad and despite having moved away, it never ceases to feel like home. there are plenty of interesting things to do and i would really recommend seeing the northern parts of pakistan that are truly beautiful! i’ll be following you on instagram to have a pictorial update on your travels! best, m.
[…] more about Paul’s adventures or perhaps meeting up with him along the road? Visit him at Beyond the Headlines to get […]
I was in Iraqi Kurdistan last winter. I loved my experiences there and woudn’t trade them for the world. Best of luck!
So intrigued by your ideas. Can’t wait to read more about your story and the stories you will be able to uncover! Safe travels.
Well done. lran is one of the most fascinating places I’ve visited. You’ll be even more of a celebrity than you were in Pakistan. If you get a chance the bus route from Isfahan to sulimaniyah (Iraq – near Erbil) is worth checking out too.
My next post will be on Iran — another place I absolutely loved. They gave the Pakistanis a run for their money in terms of friendliness!
And I forgot to ask, why not Sudan? The country where you can eat all of your meals invited in families?
And which of the 3 Somalia? All I heard from Somali is so impressive as far as bravery and integrity, do always keep your word as if it is engraved in diamond.
And about the Muslims, one funny thing happened to me in Ethiopia, I got marriage proposals, or less, from so many Orthodox Ethiopians in the first 2 minutes after meeting, so it got on my nerves a little, whereas I supposed the Ethiopian Muslims thought the same but had the tact to avoid saying it, so they were a pleasure to hang around with, I was spending all afternoons talking and chewing Qat with them…
Laure- I actually really had hoped to visit Sudan, but spent 3 months attempting to get a visa, all to no avail. Definitely one of the more frustrating experiences of my trip.
As of now, my plan is to visit Somaliland. I would love to visit Mogadishu, but think safety might still be a legitimate concern.
[…] was his hunch right? You can follow his journey to find […]
Hello Paul. It was very interesting reading the supportive comments on Pakistan. Yes, its very true one of the most hospitable Islamic country. Yes Media is the culprit to portray the other side of the coin when you called eads and it was heads yet the twist. Check it out yourself being a person who is seeking adventure and giving out the message of PEACE.
This post brought tears to my eyes. I am a Canadian with the same thirst as you. I fly to Kenya this February and then I have a flight to Abu Dhabi, and even with the two fairly touristy places, I am told that I have a death wish. From there I need to make my way to India where I plan to live for a few years. I have always wanted to explore the middle east but everyone tells me I am crazy…a “war tourist” etc. and as I am sure you experienced, it has made me very apprehensive. I planned to start with a train from Istanbul through Iran and Pakistan to Dehli (though it looks extremely difficult to get a visa for Iran as a North American). I figured Iraq was completely out of the picture for my first trip to the middle east though I have been scouring the internet for posts like yours…Posts from real people with REAL experiences. Thank you for this blog.
Thanks for writing, Blanc. I am very heartened to hear about your desire to see the world as it is, not as people might portray it. All the best on your journey!
Good for you, going off the beaten track in such a way!
I think it’s wonderful! I lived in Erbil for 3 months & am planning an going to Pakistan in the next 6. Can’t wait! Thanks for posting!
Hi Paul
Thank you for the ‘insider scoop’ of your adventures and the TRUE side of these countries. Countries most of us only hope to visit some day. It’s refreshing, invigorating and inspiring to read a non-stereo view on these places. Wishing you the very best and perhaps – who knows – we will find a book on the shelves with all your adventure stories soon after!
Thanks, Edna!
Well Paul I hope you have answered your questions….
I found your two Congo’s piece and was drawn to look further, what wonderful experiences for you.
I did the Congos during the 60’s and early 70’s on foot and boat then Europe, Americas and now Antipodes and can only conclude that headlines are generally a tool for political, economic and strategic policies that drive cultures apart for the economic benefit of the least deserving of the affluent.
Anyhow thanks for your stories and uplifting observations
Hi Paul,
Thanks for sharing positive image of Pakistan. If Pakistan is presented in a positive light, it will serve to improve its world perception and also create a positive image.
It is true, living in a developing country, what makes headlines from this side of the world is negative news. I am yet to understand what joy international global media derive from showing the negatives
I just stumbled over your page and I am enchanted by it. You have the right mindset about reflecting before judging. I sure hope more people would stop to think about what is real and what is just a construct build by media and society input.
I hope you will do another trip soon … 🙂